The Marketing Stunt That’s Fooling Millions of Indian Consumers
If you’ve walked into a beauty store or scrolled through online shopping platforms in India recently, you’ve likely seen a flood of products screaming “Zero Ammonia!” or “Ammonia-Free!” in bold letters on their packaging. The message is clear and convincing: this product is gentler, safer, and better for your hair and scalp.
But here’s the uncomfortable truth that beauty brands don’t want you to know: No ammonia hair color is largely a marketing stunt. By removing one harmful chemical, these brands have simply replaced it with others that can be equally—or sometimes even more—damaging to your hair and overall health. For Indian consumers who are increasingly conscious about product safety, it’s time to cut through the marketing noise and understand what’s really in these products.
The Ammonia Removal Myth: A Classic Sleight of Hand
Let’s start with a hard fact backed by scientific research: replacing ammonia doesn’t make hair color safe. It just changes the label on the box.

When manufacturers decided to capitalize on growing consumer concerns about ammonia’s strong odor and harsh effects, they didn’t eliminate the problem—they simply swapped one alkalizing chemical for another. The most common replacement is monoethanolamine (MEA), also called ethanolamine.
Here’s where it gets troubling: Research has shown that MEA can actually cause up to 85% MORE damage to hair than ammonia. A study published in peer-reviewed research comparing hair damage from different formulations found that MEA-based products consistently showed higher levels of damage, with the most extreme cases showing 85% increased damage compared to ammonia-based alternatives.
Let that sink in. Brands are marketing products as “gentler” while potentially using a more damaging chemical inside.
Why Brands Love This Strategy
The reason is simple: MEA doesn’t have the pungent ammonia smell. While ammonia creates that unmistakable, unpleasant odor during application (which honestly signals to consumers that something harsh is happening), MEA evaporates slowly and leaves minimal smell. To consumers, “no smell = gentler product.” It’s brilliant marketing psychology, but it’s not actually true.
Brands leverage this perception brilliantly. They highlight the absence of odor, claim their formula is “breakthrough” technology, and use words like “gentle,” “safe,” and “nourishing” while quietly replacing one harmful chemical with another that may cause even more damage.
What’s Really in “Zero Ammonia” Hair Colors?
If brands removed ammonia, what did they put in its place? The answer reveals a disturbing pattern of deception: they’ve simply substituted ammonia with an equally concerning (and sometimes more harmful) chemical.
The Usual Suspects
1. Monoethanolamine (MEA)
This is the most common ammonia replacement. MEA is an alkalizing agent that works similarly to ammonia—it opens hair cuticles to allow color penetration. But here’s what brands conveniently leave out:

- More damaging to hair: Research confirms MEA can cause significantly greater hair damage than ammonia, particularly when combined with hydrogen peroxide
- Higher risk of hair loss: Regular use of MEA-based colors is associated with increased hair loss and dermatitis
- Linked to oxidative stress: MEA causes oxidative stress in cells, potentially harming keratinocytes (the cells that make up your skin and scalp)
- May still cause irritation: Despite smelling milder, MEA can still irritate scalps and cause allergic reactions, especially with prolonged exposure
- Remains on hair: Unlike volatile ammonia that evaporates during and after the coloring process, MEA can linger on hair even after rinsing, causing long-term cumulative damage
When brands tout their products as “ammonia-free” while using MEA instead, they’re essentially saying, “We removed the smell, but potentially replaced it with something that damages your hair even more.”
2. Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD)—The Deceptive Marketing Split
Here’s where the marketing deception becomes even more sophisticated: While many brands now claim “No Ammonia AND No PPD,” the reality is far more nuanced—and in many cases, still misleading.
Yes, you’ll see products marketed as both ammonia-free AND PPD-free. But this creates a false sense of security for consumers, because there are critical questions these brands won’t answer:
If a brand removes both ammonia AND PPD, what are they using instead to develop the color?
The answer reveals the real scandal.
The PPD Problem: Why Brands Sometimes Remove It (But Not Always)
PPD (Para-Phenylenediamine) is the primary color developer in permanent dyes, especially darker shades. It’s the ingredient that makes color stick to hair permanently and deliver deep, rich tones.
The documented health risks of PPD are severe and well-researched:
- Severe allergic reactions: PPD is a notorious allergen causing itchy scalps, redness, swelling, and in extreme cases, anaphylaxis and death
- Linked to cancer: Multiple long-term studies have found increased risks of breast cancer, bladder cancer, and non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma in regular users
- Birth defects: PPD has been linked to birth defects and reproductive harm
- Kidney damage: Exposure to PPD is associated with kidney failure, requiring dialysis in severe cases
- Blood toxicity: PPD can damage blood cells and affect blood health
- Skin sensitization: PPD sensitivity often develops over time—you may use the same product for years without issues, then suddenly develop severe allergic reactions
- Accelerated buildup risk: Unlike ammonia which evaporates, PPD accumulates in the scalp with repeated use, increasing lifetime exposure and risk
A revealing fact: PPD is so toxic that it has been restricted in many countries. The European Union restricts PPD to a maximum of 6% in hair dyes, yet India’s Bureau of Indian Standards permits up to 30% PPD—a staggering difference that reflects the power of the cosmetics lobby and weaker regulation in India.
But here’s what’s even more revealing: Research in 2024 found that hair dyes manufactured in India and China were significantly more likely to exceed safe PPD concentration limits, with many Indian brands tested containing PPD levels far above what’s permitted in Europe.
The Marketing Pivot: “Zero PPD” as a Trend
Recognizing that informed consumers are becoming aware of PPD’s dangers, some brands have shifted their marketing strategy. They now prominently feature “Zero PPD” and “Zero Ammonia” claims to capture health-conscious consumers.
But here’s the critical question: If they removed both ammonia AND PPD—the two primary alkalizing and developing agents in hair color—what are they actually using to color hair?
The answer falls into a few categories:
1. They’re Using “Alternative” Developers That May Be Equally Harmful
Some brands replace PPD with other synthetic color developers like:
- Toluene-2,5-diamine (TDA): A less commonly used developer that still carries allergy and toxicity risks
- Aminophenols: Including 2-aminophenol and 4-aminophenol, which have their own health concerns and are restricted in some countries
- Other aromatic amines: Chemicals that carry similar sensitization and carcinogenic risks as PPD
The problem? Most consumers have never heard of these chemicals. A brand can remove the “scary” PPD while quietly substituting something similarly dangerous, and consumers remain none the wiser because they can’t pronounce or recognize the alternative.
2. They’re Using Semi-Permanent or Low-Permanence Formulas
Some brands claiming “Zero PPD AND Zero Ammonia” are actually selling semi-permanent colours—formulas that don’t penetrate as deeply and gradually fade over 4-6 weeks rather than lasting 8+ weeks like permanent colors.
This is a legitimate alternative for some consumers, BUT many brands don’t clearly communicate this limitation. They show before-and-after photos of deep, rich, permanent-looking results while technically selling a semi-permanent product. It’s accurate but misleading.
3. Hydrogen Peroxide—The Silent Damage Agent
Even products marketed as “gentle” and “ammonia-free” almost universally contain hydrogen peroxide. While necessary for color development, peroxide causes severe damage:
- Destroys natural hair structure: Hydrogen peroxide breaks down disulfide bonds that hold hair together, weakening the entire hair shaft
- Strips moisture: Peroxide removes natural oils and moisture from hair, leaving it dry, brittle, and prone to breakage
- Chemical burns on scalp: Higher concentrations of peroxide can cause chemical burns, especially with sensitive skin
- Long-term damage: Repeated peroxide exposure makes hair increasingly porous, weak, and unable to retain natural color, leading to premature greying
- Permanent changes: Once peroxide damages hair’s structure, the damage is often irreversible
The Neglected Chemicals
Beyond MEA and PPD, many hair dyes contain other concerning chemicals that receive minimal marketing attention:

Resorcinol: A coupling agent used to stabilize color formulas. Resorcinol is an endocrine disruptor linked to:
- Thyroid dysfunction (causing hypothyroidism, goiter, weight gain)
- Reproductive hormone disruption
- Potential carcinogenic properties
- Brain and nervous system effects
- The WHO has warned that it’s particularly dangerous during pregnancy, as even mild thyroid dysfunction in pregnant women can cause permanent neurodevelopmental disorders in unborn children
DMDM Hydantoin: A preservative that releases formaldehyde (a known carcinogen) into products. Formaldehyde is classified as a human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC).
Lead Acetate: Found in some darker dyes, linked to anemia, neurological problems, and brain toxicity.
Sulfates (SLS): Harsh detergents that strip hair of color and natural oils, weakening strands and causing scalp irritation.
These chemicals often don’t appear prominently in marketing because they’re technical terms consumers don’t recognize. Brands bank on this ignorance.
The Deception in Action: A Real-World Example
In 2023, a major international beauty brand faced a class action lawsuit after consumers discovered that a product marketed as “ammonia-free” actually contained ammonia. The plaintiff, who had a known ammonia allergy, used the product and suffered an allergic reaction with chemical burns on her scalp. When she tested the product with an at-home ammonia test kit, it tested positive for ammonia.
The lawsuit highlighted that despite marketing claims of being “ammonia-free,” the product literally contained the ingredient. The brand faced class action litigation, yet products with similar misleading claims remain on shelves globally, including in India.
This isn’t an isolated incident—it’s a pattern of an entire industry prioritizing marketing over transparency.
What About “Organic” and “Herbal” Colours? Are They Actually Different?

With consumers growing increasingly skeptical of “ammonia-free” claims, some brands have pivoted to marketing organic, natural, or herbal hair colors. These genuinely represent a different category, but with important caveats.
True 100% Organic Hair Colours (like those made from henna, indigo, amla, and brahmi) work through an entirely different mechanism:
- They coat the hair surface rather than opening the cuticle
- They bond with hair proteins through color deposition, not chemical oxidation
- They contain no synthetic alkalizers, developers, or peroxide
- They provide nourishment and conditioning alongside color
- They have minimal to no harsh chemicals
However, the word “organic” or “herbal” on packaging can be misleading. Some brands slap “herbal” on products that are actually synthetic formulas with minimal herbal extracts added. Just because something says “natural” doesn’t mean it’s free from PPD, ammonia, peroxide, or other harmful chemicals.
For genuinely safe organic colours, look for:
- 100% certified organic certifications (COSMOS, BDIH, or similar)
- Complete absence of PPD, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, resorcinol, and parabens
- Ingredient lists that are recognizable plant names (henna, indigo, amla, brahmi, etc.)
- Transparency about processing methods
The Indian Market: Why This Deception is Particularly Dangerous Here
In India, there are several factors that make this marketing deception especially harmful:
1. Limited Regulatory Oversight
Unlike the European Union, which has stricter cosmetics regulations, India’s regulatory framework for hair dyes is less stringent. This allows brands to make claims that wouldn’t be permitted in Europe or developed markets, with minimal consequence.
2. Early and Frequent Use
Indian consumers often start using hair dyes at younger ages than in Western markets, especially for grey coverage in their 20s and 30s. This means exposure to these chemicals happens over decades, increasing cumulative damage risk.
3. Knowledge Gap
Most Indian consumers don’t understand the technical chemistry of hair dyes. Terms like “ammonia-free,” “organic,” or “safe” are taken at face value without understanding what chemicals have actually been substituted.
4. Low-Cost Market Segment
India has a significant market of ultra-low-cost hair dye products (under ₹300). These budget products often contain higher concentrations of PPD and other harsh chemicals to reduce manufacturing costs, yet may still claim to be “ammonia-free” or “safe.”
5. Professional Exposure
Millions of hair stylists and salon professionals in India are exposed to these chemicals daily without proper protective equipment. The long-term health risks for this population are significant but rarely discussed.
The Real Health Risks: What Research Shows
Cancers Linked to Hair Dye Use
Multiple large-scale studies have documented increased cancer risks in regular hair dye users, particularly for:
- Breast cancer: A 2-4x increased risk in women using permanent hair dyes, especially darker shades
- Bladder cancer and other urological cancers: Particularly in salon professionals with long-term exposure
- Non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma: Including follicular lymphoma, linked to permanent dye use
- Melanoma: A twofold increased risk in women using hair dye
Research from the NIH Sister Study tracked over 117,000 women and found increased incidence of breast carcinoma, ovarian carcinoma, and basal cell carcinoma in regular hair dye users.
Hair Loss and Scalp Damage
- Increased hair loss and dermatitis, particularly with MEA-based formulations
- Progressive scalp sensitization—you may not react to PPD initially, but sensitivity develops with repeated exposure
- Chemical burns and severe inflammation
Systemic Health Effects
- Kidney damage and failure (especially with PPD exposure)
- Respiratory issues and asthma aggravation
- Thyroid dysfunction (from resorcinol exposure)
- Reproductive and endocrine disruption
- Neurological effects (tremors, memory issues, developmental effects in children)
What Brands Don’t Want You to Know: The Marketing Playbook
The beauty industry has perfected a deceptive marketing strategy:
- Identify a consumer concern (in this case, ammonia’s smell and harshness)
- Remove or reduce the offending ingredient (replace ammonia with MEA)
- Heavily market the removal (“Zero Ammonia!” featured prominently)
- Distract from what’s actually in the product (use terms like “gentle,” “nourishing,” “breakthrough”)
- Don’t transparently disclose substituted chemicals (MEA and PPD aren’t mentioned in marketing)
- Highlight minor benefits (no smell = gentler? No, just less obvious that something harsh is happening)
- Use testimonials and claims not backed by research (“Salon-quality results,” “100% gray coverage”)
It’s not lying—it’s misdirection. And it’s legal because regulations don’t require brands to highlight what harmful chemicals remain in their products.
For Indian Consumers: Making Truly Informed Choices
If you use hair color, here’s what you need to know to make genuinely safer choices:
The Safest Option: 100% Certified Organic Herbal Colors
- Must be certified organic by recognized international standards
- Should contain only plant-based ingredients (henna, indigo, amla, brahmi, etc.)
- Must explicitly state absence of PPD, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, resorcinol, and parabens
- These take longer to process (60-120 minutes) but provide nourishment alongside color
- Color lasts 2-3 weeks but your hair health improves with use
If You Use Synthetic Colors: Minimize Risk
- Look beyond “ammonia-free” marketing—it’s meaningless
- Check the ingredient list for PPD, resorcinol, and DMDM hydantoin
- Patch test 48 hours before using any new product
- Use lower volume developers (5-10 volume) rather than higher concentrations
- Minimize frequency—extend time between colorings when possible
- Never color during pregnancy, especially in the first trimester
- Use in well-ventilated areas (fumes are still present even in “ammonia-free” products)
- Wear gloves and apply petroleum jelly around hairline to prevent skin contact
- Rinse thoroughly with cool water for at least 5 minutes after processing
- Use sulfate-free, color-safe shampoos and deep conditioning treatments afterward
Recognize Marketing Deception
- “Ammonia-free” doesn’t mean safe or gentle
- “Natural-looking” results don’t indicate natural ingredients
- Terms like “breakthrough,” “revolutionary,” or “salon-grade” are marketing speak
- Beautiful before-and-after photos are normal for all hair dyes, not proof of safety
- Celebrity endorsements say nothing about safety or efficacy
For Hair Stylists and Salon Professionals
- Always use gloves, even for “gentle” products
- Ensure proper ventilation—MEA and other chemicals still evaporate and create fumes
- Wash hands and forearms thoroughly after each client
- Monitor your health for signs of PPD sensitivity or other chronic effects
- Consider switching to 100% organic herbal colors for client safety
- Educate clients about the actual chemicals in products, not just marketing claims
The Bottom Line: Zero Ammonia Is a Marketing Stunt, But the Chemicals Remain Dangerous
When a brand removes ammonia but replaces it with MEA that may cause more damage, or keeps PPD and hydrogen peroxide inside while shouting “ammonia-free” on the packaging, they’re not improving safety. They’re just improving marketing.
For Indian consumers increasingly concerned about hair health and safety, the solution isn’t to fall for the “zero ammonia” trap. The solution is to either:
- Choose genuinely safe 100% certified organic herbal colors that contain no synthetic chemicals whatsoever
- Understand that any permanent synthetic hair color carries health risks, regardless of marketing claims
- Make informed, intentional choices rather than being swayed by what brands want you to believe
- Support transparency by demanding that brands clearly disclose all ingredients, not just those they’re removing
The era of brands using semantic tricks and marketing misdirection should end. Indian consumers deserve to know exactly what chemicals are in the products they’re applying to their scalps and hair.
“Zero ammonia” might get you in the door. But read the fine print, check the ingredients list, and ask the real question: What harmful chemicals have brands hidden inside the packaging?
The answer might surprise—and concern—you.
At Radico, we believe in complete transparency. Our 100% certified organic hair colors contain henna, indigo, amla, brahmi, and other Ayurvedic herbs—nothing else. No PPD. No ammonia. No MEA. No hydrogen peroxide. No resorcinol. Just pure, nourishing plant power that colors your hair while strengthening your scalp and strands.
Because true hair color safety means knowing exactly what you’re putting on your body. No marketing tricks. No hidden chemicals. Just honest, transparent beauty.



